I'm going to talk about some things to help us stay safe on the ground - when in the stall with a horse, when leading, when trailer-loading, when grooming and saddling, when doing groundwork, when feeding, when doing turnout and when among loose horses. Horses are very big and strong and can certainly be unpredictable, and it's possible to be seriously injured and even killed when on the ground. We can never completely eliminate risk but we can significantly reduce it with some forethought and training (of ourselves and our horses). No one wants to be hurt - to have their feet stepped on or to be head-butted, bitten, kicked, dragged, knocked into or trampled.
Here's a summary of what I think it takes to stay safe on the ground:
- Consistently define your personal space and what it is permissible for your horse to do and not to do around you.
- Teach your horse to reliably give to pressure.
- Teach your horse to lead well.
- Have a plan and build safety into your routines.
- Be aware of where you are, what you are doing, what the horse is doing, and most importantly, what the horse is thinking about doing. Anticipate things before they happen if possible.
- Don't be in a hurry.
- Try not to do things that are really stupid, even if you can get away with them 9 times out of 10 or 99 times out of 100 - pay attention to that small voice that's saying "this is a really bad idea".
You'll notice that none of these things are really about the horse, they're about us and how we decide to interact with our horses and train them - it's our responsibility to create the conditions for safety. We can't expect the horses to do it for us if we don't give them the leadership and direction they need.
And now some examples and thoughts on these principles for safety.
1. You need to decide what your ground rules are, and adhere to them - every single time. How can we expect our horses to consistently maintain a proper distance - for me it's at least an arm's-length - if sometimes we let the horse come closer and sometimes don't? How can we expect our horses to not try to snatch grass when we're leading if we sometimes allow it? How can we expect the horse to know it's not OK to rub their head on us, step on our feet or bump into us if we sometimes let them and sometimes don't? My rule is that I can come closer to the horse if I choose, but the horse can't come closer to me without my explicit permission. And if you don't want your horse to nip at you, don't ever let it happen without saying something to the horse about it. Can your horse "just stand around" with you without nudging you or bumping into you or dragging you? I don't care if the horse wants to move its feet as long as the horse doesn't come into my space (this type of exercise is under the topic of patience and self-calming in the Working Towards Softness sidebar). One rule I have is that a horse on the lead may never interact with another horse - they can do that when they're loose in the pasture - this avoids things like horses striking when sniffing noses, which can be very dangerous and also avoids being too close to a loose horse. When I'm among a herd of loose horses - which can be one of the most dangerous situations due to horse on horse aggression - I always carry a 10' lead line that I can use to define a larger personal space and to swing to move horses away - if I'm leading a haltered horse among loose horses, the other horses are not allowed to approach and interact.
2. That leads to point 2. In order to define our space, we have to be able to move the horse away. By "giving to pressure" I mean a variety of things - and the horse should know them all. It includes the horse backing off due to verbal or hand commands or pressure on the halter. All my horses know "one step back" - in response to a raised hand, palm out, or gentle pressure on the halter. It includes the horse moving its body away in any direction as a result of soft hand pressure - if I touch my horses on the chest or side, they're to step away. It includes teaching the horse to softly give to pressure on the halter, including laterally, downwards and backing (my Working Towards Softness sidebar has some posts including some of this). Will your horse allow you to touch it most anywhere on its body? When I get to lungeing or ground-driving, I teach "leading by the legs" so a horse won't panic if a line gets tangled (in the lungeing and ground-driving post in the sidebar). This teaches horses to respond to the cues I use to define my space, and also mean the horse is soft and not braced and pulling when handled on the ground.
3. Leading - good leading, not the horse dragging or bumping into the handler - is fundamental for me. Good leading is about defining your personal space and what the rules are, and being consistent about them. I do a lot of leading, including doing turnout of sometimes excited horses, and trailer loading - which is really just leading - and I want the horse to choose to lead, on a loose lead, in the position I choose at a distance determined by me, and to stop when I stop and go when I go, without pressure on the halter. If the horse is ahead of me, setting the pace or direction, or there's pressure on the halter, that isn't me leading the horse, that's the horse dragging me. I've got a series of exercises on leading I do - they're in a couple of posts on the sidebar. It takes some time and effort to get good leading established, but it's worth it. And don't ever, ever, coil a rope or line around your hand or any other part of your body, when leading or doing ground work.
4. Know what you're intending to do and how you're going to do it, and know what you're going to do if things go south in a hurry. Having safety baked into your routines is good too. For example, when I turn a horse out, I always turn the horse to face me before taking off the halter - this reduces the chances that I'll be kicked or run over on departure - although I do sometimes get splattered with mud! When leading a haltered horse among loose horses I'm my horse's "protection" and it's my job to be sure no other horse is permitted to approach and possibly bite or kick - this keeps both me and my horse on the lead safe. What are you going to do if another horse approaches with ill intent? If you're trailer loading, be sure your leading and giving to pressure are established first. Being in a trailer with a horse is one of the most dangerous places there is - you're in close quarters - be sure you know what your plan is - and what your escape route is if you need it. For this reason, I wear a helmet when training trailer loading. If your horse takes off on the lunge line, what are you going to do? Feeding time can be particularly hazardous - make sure you have rules - if you want your horse to step away from the feed bin, teach the horse to do it; if you want the herd to back off and wait for feed to be distributed, teach that. (Horses with dangerous food aggression issues are a whole different topic - they may have ulcers or have been starved or had to fight for food.)
5. Being aware is really fundamental. Know where you are, where the horse(s) are, and learn to read your horse(s) - problems don't arise out of nowhere and there are usually warning signs that something's about to happen. If you're talking on the phone, talking to your friends or texting, you're not aware. If you're going to be doing things out among loose horses, spend time observing the herd and how they interact and what their signals to one another are - they're often very subtle. Know the herd order and how aggressive the various horses are likely to be to one another - it may affect what you do - extra care may need to be taken when leading a low-ranking horse while an aggressive higher-ranking horse is loose nearby. If something's about to happen, don't let the thought turn into action - get ahead of it by providing some leadership and direction - if you're just reacting you're already behind the curve.
6. A very large percentage of accidents on the ground with horses, in my personal experience, are caused by a combination of being in a hurry, or changing a routine in a way that reduces its safety (often because you're in a hurry). Don't let other people rush you either - the only time I've (so far) been seriously injured on the ground, another boarder was in a hurry to turn her horses out and I was in the barn aisle and let myself be rushed - see point 7.
7. Don't be stupid - this often happens together with number 6. This may seem self-evident, but even experienced horse people make this mistake - "I'll do this just once", "I'll get away with it this time", etc. Listen to that internal voice that says "you shouldn't be doing this . . ." Sure you may get away with it once, or many times, but is the risk really worth it? And, if you have a mare that tends to double-barrel kick when she's in heat, don't ever, ever, ever, pick her hind feet while she's loose in the barn aisle and about to sniff noses with another horse . . .
If you have points to add, or ground safety stories to tell, please feel free to put them in the comments.
I find it useful to put "undesirable" behaviors on a cue and sometimes ask for them. No, my horse can't snatch at grass when we're walking somewhere - but if I walk her to the grass and say "graze" she's free to eat. She absolutely may not use me as a scratching post (I really hate that one!) but if her face looks sweaty and itchy, I will reach out and scratch it for her.
ReplyDeleteConsistency is definitely the most important attribute around horses!
I'm not sure that I've ever seen rule #7 - the other rules of course, but not 7. And I LOVE IT!
ReplyDeleteVery good post!!
Exellent post Kate ! Thank you so much for this!
ReplyDeleteThis is a good post, I was thinking it was a bit strict, but I can understand your view when you are dealing with a boarding situation and all those horses are not your own, sometimes others horses have bad manners.
ReplyDeleteCrystal - it probably is strict, but that's how I am on ground manners. I think it's up to every horse owner/handler to define what they think is acceptable or not acceptable behavior and consistently require it - and everyone will have their own definition of what is OK.
ReplyDeleteFunder - I haven't taught my horses a "graze" cue since they're out on grass pasture most of the day, so I don't have to hand graze them. But if you need to hand graze, it's definitely a good idea to consider.
ReplyDelete*grin* That last sentence spoke volumes about your wealth of first-hand knowledge about the dangers that can happen while working with horses.
ReplyDeleteThanks for a well written, helpful post, Kate.
~Lisa
I do what Funder does with cues, too. The only grass my horse is ever exposed to is the grass she gets when I permit her to hand graze. So, when we leave her paddock and head to areas of grass, she knows not to snatch any until I say, "Eat" It's the same way when I am riding her on a trail ride. If we come to a particularly good patch of grass she isn't permitted to bend down and eat until I give her the cue.
ReplyDeleteIt works well for us and she learned it pretty fast.
~Lisa
These are good points. I like the "graze" command. At the barn where I take lessons, the best grass seems to be outside the fences, so we often graze them in their bridles after our lessons. I may try to teach him a graze command. He knows "carrots" is time to go in so I can indulge him for hauling me around. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteExcellent post and really important stuff.
ReplyDeleteAs you described, it so important to pay attention to the little things. When the horse is standing with you and it advances a shoulder or a hoof toward you, that is the beginning of disobedient behavior. I try to always send a horse back if it advances a hoof in the cross ties, while leading, while mounting, because I would rather correct the tiny infraction with a tiny request to step back than wait for the behavior to escalate. An intrusion of the shoulder can grow into the horse walking on top of you very quickly. This type of strict obedience is essential for therapeutic riding and lessons as well as general safe handling.
An excellent post Kate. Good points on taking your time, and being consistent. It is so tempting to take shortcuts sometimes, and that's usually the beginning of things going south. Which brings us to point #7.
ReplyDeleteSuch a good post!! I especailly like the part about not doing anything in a hurry and number 5. Try to anticipate things before they do them. This is a lot easier when you know the horse though because it's easier to read the signs that they are about to spook or do something silly.
ReplyDeleteExcellent post. I have cues for hand grazing and for directed touching. For example I had to measure Lily with a metal measuring tape and it makes a (apparently) scary noise. But when she heard the word target, she stood still and focused, looking for how she could score a cookie.
ReplyDeleteI also have zero tolerance for bad leading, but have the hardest time with lily who was taught to lead from the side (I like being an arm's length ahead). I think she learned to lead at the shoulder. She reverts sometimes.
At feeding time I make the herd look to me to see who can come in first. With other people they come in according to herd hierarchy, and rush in. When I walk in, they stand their ground and wait for my signal. I guess I heard too many people getting hurt at feeding time.
Good post on safety! Being in a hurry is never a good thing, in any aspect of life. Reminds me of the saying "haste makes waste".
ReplyDeleteReminds me of when I was younger and went to turn my horse out but forgot to pick his feet out so I ran down to get a hoof pick, ran back up and went to lift his back leg up when he didn't even know I was there! Needless to say I got a kick in the thigh! Was all my fault though and backs up your point to not be in a rush!
ReplyDeleteKate, Very good list of things to always keep in mind! We have to be so aware when we are around horses, but it keeps everyone much safer. One rule that I use for myself is whenever the horse I am handling starts to get anxious/panicked I immediately redirect their mind by doing little exercises and keep them busy with walking squares, walking circles, stopping, backing, etc until they regain a bit of calmness. Great list!
ReplyDeleteThese were very helpful. I am just learning to ride ( 46 yo mom ) and love it. However I am an ICU nurse with way too much experience with traumatic injuries and I am almost paralyzed by fear of being kicked etc. on the ground/grooming. I am fine in the saddle and not at all fearful on the horse. But, I shake like a leaf tacking up...particularly when picking back feet etc. Any thought? Edie
ReplyDeleteEdie - in all my many years of working with horses, I've never been seriously bitten and have only been kicked a few times - two times by ponies in sort of odd circumstances, and the most recent time by my mare Dawn under somewhat odd circumstances that were pretty much entirely my fault.
ReplyDeleteMy advice - do what you're comfortable doing, and since you're just learning, you should be able to work with horses that are more reliable and predictable. Although any horse can hurt you on the ground, an older well-trained horse should be reassuring. And keep breathing, and move slowly and deliberately - that should help to reduce tension.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting, and best wishes for your horse endeavors!